spustanje prednjeg kraja
- Thread starter odredjen
- Start date
deny-zg
Well-known member
DON'T JUST LOWER ONE END-Maintain The Correct Chassis Attitude
Some sportbikes have graduated lines on the fork tubes that allow easy adjustment for raising or lowering front end ride height. If you try to use the lowest mark, always check to make sure that you have sufficient clearance between the lower triple clamp and the front fender.
Any time you lower either end of a motorcycle, you must lower the opposite end an identical amount. Unless you want to change the bike's steering characteristics (which should only be done if you have a comprehensive grasp of motorcycle steering geometry), you must maintain the bike's chassis attitude to avoid handling problems. Changing the front or rear ride heights by as little as 5mm can have a dramatic effect on how a bike handles in the corners.
This is why it's essential to use the correct spring rate when lowering either end of the motorcycle a drastic amount. Shortening the fork requires cutting the fork springs in order to maintain the correct spring rate, otherwise the fork will ride extremely stiff since it will be at the bottom of its travel. It's also necessary to check suspension sag measurements (like you'd normally do) after modifying, using slightly smaller figures to compensate for the shortened suspension travel; that way the bike will maintain the correct chassis attitude during cornering, instead of riding higher on one end or the other.
The majority of current sportbikes use a cartridge fork, which employs an oil damping mechanism housed in an internal cylinder to handle suspension control. Shortening the fork requires disassembling the cartridge; this is a delicate piece of equipment, and taking it apart requires specialized tools and a person skilled in handling these components. Even shortening a traditional damper rod fork requires some mechanical expertise, so this is a job best left to a specialist.
Some sportbikes have graduated lines on the fork tubes that allow easy adjustment for raising or lowering front end ride height. If you try to use the lowest mark, always check to make sure that you have sufficient clearance between the lower triple clamp and the front fender.
Any time you lower either end of a motorcycle, you must lower the opposite end an identical amount. Unless you want to change the bike's steering characteristics (which should only be done if you have a comprehensive grasp of motorcycle steering geometry), you must maintain the bike's chassis attitude to avoid handling problems. Changing the front or rear ride heights by as little as 5mm can have a dramatic effect on how a bike handles in the corners.
This is why it's essential to use the correct spring rate when lowering either end of the motorcycle a drastic amount. Shortening the fork requires cutting the fork springs in order to maintain the correct spring rate, otherwise the fork will ride extremely stiff since it will be at the bottom of its travel. It's also necessary to check suspension sag measurements (like you'd normally do) after modifying, using slightly smaller figures to compensate for the shortened suspension travel; that way the bike will maintain the correct chassis attitude during cornering, instead of riding higher on one end or the other.
The majority of current sportbikes use a cartridge fork, which employs an oil damping mechanism housed in an internal cylinder to handle suspension control. Shortening the fork requires disassembling the cartridge; this is a delicate piece of equipment, and taking it apart requires specialized tools and a person skilled in handling these components. Even shortening a traditional damper rod fork requires some mechanical expertise, so this is a job best left to a specialist.
maxo
Active member
deny-zg said:
Ovo je koliko sam ja shvatio skracivanje vilica šta je definitivno puno kompliciranije od samog propuštanja vilica(cijevi) kroz trokute :wink:
Meni su na mojem propuštene za 10mm i nemam nikakvih problema a kakva je razlika ne znam jer sam ga kupio tako postavljenog :misli:
Ghostrider-SB
New member
Osobno to nebi dirao na motoru, neki moji kad bi vozili trku ubrzanja spuštali su R1 i kawi 10-ki prednji dio po par cm na trokutima ono kao da se ne diže na zadnji kod starta, nakon toga probao sam vozit taj motor i kod spore vožnje osim što više vjesiš naprijed drugu funkciju nema, a kod brze vožnje umarao bi se previše i motor se čudno ponašao kod većih zalijeganja u zavoj, neznam kako hoćeš al ako neplaniraš i zadnji podesti mislim da ti ovo neće bit dobro.
Znam za neke ljude koji su niži rastom a voze gixere soma da su spuštali i po 5 cm i prednji i zadnji kraj da bi mogli dokučit nogama do zemlje, e sad tko voli nek izvoli 8)
Znam za neke ljude koji su niži rastom a voze gixere soma da su spuštali i po 5 cm i prednji i zadnji kraj da bi mogli dokučit nogama do zemlje, e sad tko voli nek izvoli 8)
Ghostrider-SB
New member
8)
deny-zg
Well-known member
bas tako ,vani isto dosta sputaju prednji kraj zbog utrka ubrzanja ali upravljivost onda nije tako dobra... Nisu ovi u tvornici bezveze proracunavali sve to... ako se to vec ide raditi onda treba to prepustit nekom strucnjaku ,tipa likovima sto stelaju ovjese ekipi koja juri po grobniku.Ghostrider-SB said:
odredjen
New member
na ovom videu http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uKQawwqbTRk lik govori o tome (pocinje nakon 1 min.) kako su mu u Suzukiju rekli da spusti prednji kraj za 3mm i da ce time promjeniti geometriju (strmiji nagib) sto mu je poboljsalo i olaksalo brze promjene zavoja, a nije izgubio nista od stabilnosti. Dakle, radi se o "samo" 3 mm (a ne nekoliko cm, kako su neki probali i naravno razocarali se) i mislim da cu to i napravit. Moj ZX10R je iznimno stabilan, ali je i prilicno "lijen" kod naglih promjena smjera i vjerujem da ce mu to malo pomoci. Javim kad istestiram.
OldBoy
New member
maxo said:
...Kada se nešto sasvim i do kraja ne razumije, bolje NE drkati po tome. Razmislite: kut prednje vilice u odnosu na stvarnu vertikalu motora (visak) neki proizvođači deklariraju sa granicom točnosti od desetinke stupnja (npr. 23,6 a ne 23,5 ili 23,7). Pokušajte nacrtati kut od 0,1 stupanj da si predočite točnost tvorničkog podešenja. Al svako je gazda svog motora, ko voli nek izvoli. Takva radnja bez dodatnog podešavanja tvrdoće ovjesa nema smisla i predstavlja nepotreban rizik.
Joy Rider
New member
sesir said:
Ja sam imao na R1(2004) 5mm.A treba onda podesiti i drugo...
Pogledaj ovde....
http://www.sportrider.com/bikes/146_suspension_settings/index10.html
i možda i ovoj film
Twist.of.the.Wrist.II.SAG.adjustment
malo su mi čudne ove tablice sa gornjeg linka jer se obično preload i rebound adjustments rade po težini (kilaži) vožača, a svi imamo različito kila.... i dali možda imaš neki link da skinem taj film, volio bi pogledati jer imam neku začkoljicu i ja sam sa spuštanjem zadnjeg kraja na ninji zx6r 98". Naime interesira me ako ubacim lowering links koje spuštaju za 2" (5.1 cm) koliko moraju prednje vilice iči gore... našao sam podatak da je neki tip na istom motoru ugradio 1.5" lowering link i digao vilice za 0.5", a opet ima podatak da je potrebno iste vrijednosti na oba kraja pa nebi baš volio imat vilice u očima (5.1 cm van) i tako eto sav sam zbrkan sad....help...